Architecture on Victor42

A Bit of Homework on Suzhou Gardens

hi@victor42.work (Victor42) — Wed, 30 Sep 2020 10:18:27 +0000

I’m visiting Suzhou’s gardens during the National Day holiday. My previous visit, as a student, was underwhelming – I knew little about them, and only the Lion Grove Garden’s rockery maze stuck with me. To avoid a repeat, I did some prep work. Now, they’re far more intriguing, and I’m excited to go.

Expecting crowds, I’m not aiming for great photos. If I get any, I might expand this into a travelogue. Otherwise, these notes will do.

My main source is the podcast “园林里的中国故事” (Chinese Gardens’ Stories), a summary of key facts about several gardens. I’m unfamiliar with the host, but I’ve verified the information. The host’s deep historical and cultural knowledge, and clear connections, make it a worthwhile listen.

Globally, three garden systems stand out: Chinese classical, European geometric, and Japanese gardens.

Chinese classical gardens have three branches: imperial gardens, Jiangnan’s private gardens, and Lingnan gardens. Lingnan gardens, historically on the periphery, lacked the literati influence and wealth, developing a distinct, folk-influenced style.

China’s Four Great Gardens are the Summer Palace, Chengde Mountain Resort, Humble Administrator’s Garden, and Lingering Garden.

Canglang Pavilion, Lion Grove Garden, Humble Administrator’s Garden, and Lingering Garden represent the four major Suzhou gardens, showcasing Song, Yuan, Ming, and Qing dynasty styles, respectively.

Origins and History

Chinese gardens originated in the Qin and Han dynasties, alongside ancient Chinese architecture, but were initially imperial hunting grounds. Earlier rulers had similar areas, but not true gardens. These took the form of tai (platforms), you (pastures), and zhao (ponds).

Emperor Wu of Han expanded Shanglin Yuan into the largest garden ever. It served as a zoo, botanical garden, farm, mine, and military training ground.

The Wei, Jin, and Southern and Northern Dynasties marked China’s second ideological liberation, after the Spring and Autumn and Warring States periods. Previously, literati talents served solely political ends. The 300-year chaos of the Wei, Jin, and Southern and Northern Dynasties freed literati, making them an independent class.

Imperial gardens stagnated during this time. Meanwhile, literati, disillusioned by the turmoil, embraced reclusion, cultivating unique theories, spiritual worlds, and garden art.

Taoism rose concurrently, and Buddhism, introduced in the Han Dynasty, peaked. Temple gardens flourished, often in remote locations, opening up scenic areas for future generations.

Gardens peaked in the prosperous Tang Dynasty, displaying a bold, magnificent style. This era represented a zenith in Chinese military, economic, and cultural power. Gardens, poetry, and other cultural outputs reflected this confidence. The largest Tang imperial garden surpassed even the later Forbidden City in size.

The Tang Dynasty boasted advanced flower cultivation, and private gardens began to prioritize landscaping, unlike the simpler, often field-like gardens of the Wei, Jin, and Southern and Northern Dynasties.

During the Song and Yuan dynasties, gardens shifted from concrete to abstract, pursuing artistic conception. This mirrored a broader cultural trend. The Song Dynasty prioritized civil over military matters. Though militarily weaker, its economy and culture thrived. The recreational pursuits of later literati fully developed during the Song Dynasty.

Emperor Huizong of Song, a notable artist, pioneered the use of Taihu stones for garden rockeries.

The Southern Song Dynasty saw a rise in public gardens, allowing ordinary people to experience garden aesthetics.

The Yuan Dynasty’s key contribution was establishing Yuan Dadu, Beijing’s predecessor. The formation of Beijing’s core, the water supply from the Western Hills, and the Grand Canal project were all completed during the Yuan Dynasty, laying the groundwork for Ming and Qing imperial gardens.

The Ming and Qing dynasties shaped China’s enduring political and economic landscape. Beijing became the political center, while Jiangnan served as the economic and cultural hub.

While the north of the Ming Dynasty faced frequent wars, Jiangnan prospered. Garden development in Jiangnan remained largely unaffected by political instability.

In the late Ming and early Qing dynasties, Yangzhou, a Grand Canal hub, thrived on commerce, particularly the salt trade. Yangzhou’s gardens were then the most famous, though few survive. Because the owners were primarily merchants, these gardens lacked the prestige of literati gardens. Yangzhou declined with Qing salt reforms and the rise of maritime transport.

During the Qing Dynasty, Beijing’s imperial gardens flourished, reaching their peak.

Humble Administrator’s Garden (Zhuozheng Yuan)

Built between 1509 and 1530, during the mid-Ming Dynasty’s Zhengde era, the imperial court was declining while the common people enjoyed a period of economic and cultural prosperity. The strict frugality of Zhu Yuanzhang (the first Ming emperor) had faded, allowing for lavish gardens like this.

Wang Xianchen, the garden’s creator, retired from official service in his 40s. He transformed a dilapidated temple, old residences, and low-lying land into his private garden.

Zhuozheng Yuan is the largest private garden. It currently covers 78 mu (about 13 acres), though it was originally 100-200 mu. Most Suzhou gardens are under 20 mu.

The garden’s name comes from the Jin Dynasty’s “Idle Dwelling Fu,” suggesting that “clumsy” tasks like gardening are the true path. This reclusive philosophy influenced later private gardens.

Wang Xianchen is a controversial figure. His career declined in middle age, including a prison stint. While praised by literati like Tang Yin and Wen Zhengming, official records paint him as corrupt, suggesting his imprisonment stemmed from graft or factionalism, and that he used family influence to seize the temple.

Zhuozheng Yuan’s fame is largely due to Wen Zhengming’s writings and paintings, especially the “Thirty-One Scenes of Zhuozheng Yuan.” These records suggest the original garden was more like a vegetable garden, with the intricate landscapes appearing during the Qing Dynasty.

Wang Xianchen died in his 70s, and his son reportedly gambled away the garden in one night.

During the Qing Dynasty, Zhuozheng Yuan was famous and often housed Suzhou’s highest-ranking official. Some believe Cao Xueqin’s family (author of Dream of the Red Chamber) bought part of the garden, inspiring the Grand View Garden’s setting.

During the Xianfeng era, the Taiping Heavenly Kingdom occupied Suzhou, and the Loyal King, Li Xiucheng, made Zhuozheng Yuan his palace, even expanding it. After the rebellion, Li Hongzhang, shocked by its extravagance, protected and maintained it. It then returned to being an administrative site, preserving the garden’s layout.

Key areas:

East Garden: The largest (almost half the area), with a rustic landscape and scattered buildings.
Central Garden: The main, most exquisite scenic area. It centers on the Distant Fragrance Hall (Yuanxiang Tang), facing north to a “one pond, three mountains” layout. This design imitates the mythical mountains of Penglai, Yingzhou, and Fangzhang, a pattern originating in Qin Shi Huang’s gardens. The Little Flying Rainbow (Xiao Feihong), a covered bridge, is another highlight.
West Garden: For entertainment – music, flowers, and mandarin ducks. A pavilion, “With Whom Shall I Sit?” (Yu Shui Tong Zuo Xuan), is named after Su Dongpo’s line: “With whom shall I sit? The bright moon, the cool breeze, and me.”

Zhuozheng Yuan, and similar gardens, greatly influenced later ones, making them famous for literary associations. Suzhou’s flourishing culture and abundant literati were key. To balance opportunities, the court restricted southern literati’s access to officialdom. Those excluded poured their energy into garden art, leading social trends.

Late Ming garden development also solidified construction methods. Imitating natural landscapes with endless variations, architectural design broke free from limited functional building types, elevating classical architecture.

Lingering Garden (Liu Yuan)

Built during the Ming Dynasty’s Wanli era, Liu Yuan is the newest of the major gardens.

At 35 mu, it’s second only to Zhuozheng Yuan, and much larger than others in Suzhou.

Three treasures:

Cloud-Capped Peak (Guanyun Feng): A Taihu stone, said to be from Emperor Huizong of Song’s palace.
Five-Peak Immortal Hall (Wufeng Xian Guan): Built with nanmu wood, it’s one of only two civilian nanmu halls. Its construction date and the reason for using restricted nanmu are unknown.
Rain-Clear Sky Painting (Yu Guo Tian Qing Tu): A stone with natural marble patterns resembling a painting.

Liu Yuan’s spatial planning is exceptional; its artistic merit is arguably the highest among Suzhou gardens.

In the Ming Dynasty, it was called East Garden (Dong Yuan). The builder, Xu Taishi, a fourth-rank official like Wang Xianchen, was also an architect. He served as chief of construction in the Ministry of Works, overseeing repairs to Cining Palace and the imperial tombs.

East Garden wasn’t actually east of Suzhou’s old city. Xu Taishi’s residence was larger; the residential area was west, and the garden area to the east was named East Garden.

Unlike Zhuozheng Yuan, Liu Yuan’s location and layout are largely unchanged, preserving the original design.

After the Xu family declined, East Garden was briefly abandoned. During the Qing Dynasty, a new owner, surnamed Liu, renamed it Hanbi Villa (Hanbi Shanzhuang), adding many Taihu stones.

This new owner was a literatus and avid collector of unusual stones. Cloud-Capped Peak was then just outside the northeast corner. Unable to acquire the land, he built a structure to admire it from across the wall.

Hanbi Villa was one of the few Suzhou gardens to survive the Taiping Rebellion. Afterward, Sheng Xuanhuai’s father bought it. The Sheng family adopted the previous owner’s surname, Liu, changing it to a homophone (留, “linger”). They also incorporated Cloud-Capped Peak by expanding the northeast corner. This explains the mostly square Liu Yuan’s protruding northeast corner. The garden we see today largely reflects the Sheng family’s influence.

Sheng Xuanhuai was a key figure in the late Qing Dynasty’s Self-Strengthening Movement and a prominent industrialist. He founded Tianjin University and several Jiaotong Universities. As Li Hongzhang’s right-hand man, he proposed merchant ships to fund the navy and a telegraph industry, both adopted by Li. Sheng also took advantage of struggles between Li Hongzhang and Zuo Zongtang to crush Hu Xueyan’s business empire.

Sheng Xuanhuai’s industries were vast, including shipping, telecommunications, textiles, education, banking, mining, and public welfare institutions like libraries. He also founded the Red Cross Society of China.

Lion Grove Garden (Shizi Lin)

Built in 1341, during the late Yuan Dynasty, Shizi Lin began as a Zen temple garden, a place for a high monk’s lectures, built by his disciple.

The name “Shizi Lin” (Lion Grove) honors the monk’s lineage. He was a disciple of a monk from Lion Rock (Shizi Yan) on Tianmu Mountain. “Lion” also symbolizes a high monk in Buddhism.

It wasn’t a traditional temple, lacking typical Buddhist buildings. It remained primarily a garden, not emphasizing ritual.

Ming Dynasty painter Ni Zan visited, helped plan, and painted “Shizi Lin Tu,” giving it cultural prestige.

Yao Guangxiao, the monk Daoyan, Zhu Di’s advisor, was from Suzhou and reportedly Shizi Lin’s abbot. He advised Zhu Di to seize the capital and oversaw Beijing’s construction and the Yongle Encyclopedia’s compilation. Yao Guangxiao remained a monk, refusing official positions. He later wrote Dao Yu Lu, criticizing the popular Neo-Confucianism of Cheng and Zhu.

Until the Qing Dynasty, Shizi Lin was a semi-garden, semi-temple. Emperor Qianlong, who loved it, imitated it in the imperial gardens and inscribed the True Delight Pavilion (Zhenqu Ting), giving it royal favor.

During the Republic of China period, the Bei family bought and renovated Shizi Lin. I.M. Pei spent part of his childhood here.

I.M. Pei is a world-renowned architect. His masterpieces include the Louvre Pyramid, the Suzhou Museum, and the Museum of Islamic Art. He deeply understood cross-cultural architectural art. He famously said, “Let light do the design.”

Canglang Pavilion (Surging Wave Pavilion)

Canglang Pavilion is the oldest documented garden, built in the early Northern Song Dynasty. At that time, the Northern Song hadn’t unified the country, and Suzhou was under Wuyue Kingdom rule.

The builder was a Wuyue military governor, who used it as a private villa.

During the Northern Song Dynasty, the literatus Su Shunqin, facing career setbacks and demotion, came to Suzhou. He bought the garden for 40,000 coins, building Canglang Pavilion. With a literatus’ endorsement, its fame soared.

During the Southern Song Dynasty, anti-Jin general Han Shizhong lived here, renaming it Han Garden.

From the Yuan Dynasty onward, Canglang Pavilion was abandoned. Monks built a temple, which lasted through the Ming Dynasty.

In Kangxi’s 23rd year, the Jiangsu governor built the Su Gong Shrine (Su Gong祠) on the site to commemorate Su Shunqin. Canglang Pavilion became a public building.

In Kangxi’s 34th year, another governor restored Canglang Pavilion nearby. The original was a waterside pavilion; the restoration was a mountain pavilion, built on a rockery. The garden’s focus shifted from lake to mountain.

Canglang Pavilion was mostly destroyed during the Taiping Rebellion. Today’s version is a large-scale Tongzhi era reconstruction, based on the mountain pavilion. The Ming Dynasty appearance is lost.

Canglang Pavilion’s influence lies in its name and spirit. Su Shunqin took “Canglang” from a short song: “When the waters of Canglang are clear, I can wash my hat tassels. When the waters of Canglang are muddy, I can wash my feet.” This reflects a scholar-official’s attitude: serve in enlightened times, cultivate oneself in dark ones.

Su Shunqin invited Ouyang Xiu to write an essay, and Ouyang Xiu wrote: “The clear breeze and bright moon are priceless, but sadly they only sold for 40,000 coins.” Song Dynasty officials were well-paid; 40,000 coins were about two months’ salary for a county magistrate. Ouyang Xiu’s words further elevated the garden’s fame.

Master of the Nets Garden (Wangshi Yuan)

Wangshi Yuan was built during the Southern Song Dynasty. The literatus Shi Zhengzhi built a residence, Wanjuan Tang (Ten Thousand Volumes Hall). A small garden with water, Yuyin (Fisherman’s Retreat), was Wangshi Yuan’s predecessor.

During the Qianlong era, retired official Song Zongyuan bought Wanjuan Tang and, inspired by Yuyin, renamed it Wangshi Yuan. Wangshi means “fisherman” in ancient Chinese.

Wangshi Yuan changed hands several times and was extensively renovated during the Guangxu era, resulting in its current form.

During the Republic of China period, Zhang Zuolin gave the garden as a birthday gift to his teacher.

During the War of Resistance Against Japan, Zhang Daqian and his brother, Zhang Shanzi, lived in Wangshi Yuan for four years. Zhang Shanzi, famous for painting tigers, actually kept tigers in the garden. He painted a “Flying Tiger” for Claire Chennault, the American pilot, and Chennault’s squadron became the Flying Tigers (though the exact timeline is unclear).

Wangshi Yuan’s most famous scene is Dianchunyi (Hall of Late Spring), a small, independent courtyard and study in the northwest corner, with a distinct Ming style. “Dian” means “behind,” Dianchun means late spring (peony season), and “yi” means small house. The name means “a small study in the peony season.”

In 1978, during the establishment of US-China diplomatic relations, a delegation of American museums visited. A Chinese-American consultant from the Metropolitan Museum of Art, having collected Ming-style furniture, asked Chinese garden master Chen Congzhou how to display it. Chen recommended replicating Dianchunyi. Due to diplomatic factors, the cooperation proceeded smoothly. This marked the first appearance of a Chinese garden in a foreign museum, taking garden culture global.

Even now, the Metropolitan Museum of Art is the only place to see a complete Ming-style garden. Because of the brief Tongguang Restoration during the late Qing Dynasty, most gardens were renovated in the more elaborate Qing style. Ming-style gardens have a rustic, scholarly atmosphere.

Summary

Key features:

Zhuozheng Yuan: Largest, most luxurious, Taiping Heavenly Kingdom’s Loyal King’s palace.
Liu Yuan: Newest, best preserved, highest artistic achievement, Sheng Xuanhuai.
Shizi Lin: Rockeries, Qianlong’s inscription, Yao Guangxiao and I.M. Pei.
Canglang Pavilion: Oldest, literati spirit, Su Shunqin and Ouyang Xiu.
Wangshi Yuan: Zhang Shanzi painted tigers, Dianchunyi went global.

4 Days 5 Nights in Beijing

hi@victor42.work (Victor42) — Sun, 22 Sep 2019 18:03:29 +0000

This is a long travelogue, around 10,000 words. Feel free to just skim the pictures if you’re not up for reading it all.

This was my third trip to Beijing. The first time, I was too young to remember much. The second time, I skipped the historical sites and went straight to the Military Museum. This time, I finally explored the city, and it left a lasting impression.

Before leaving, I pictured the cockroaches in my house, hiding in every nook and cranny, planning a five-day party the moment I was gone. I opened my train ticket, my finger hovering over the refund button, a sly smile on my face. Suddenly, the house was filled with tiny wails and cries of despair: “No, no, no!”, “Stop–”, “Oh s**t!”… One particularly dramatic roach even did a front flip, splitting its cookie crumb in two.

Enough of that. I left anyway; let them have their fun.

I went straight to the high-speed rail station after work and arrived in Beijing that night. It was surprisingly quick, just 4.5 hours from Hangzhou. The trip was 4 days and 5 nights, during the Mid-Autumn Festival. The weather was perfect, with no rain during the day.

Day 1: The Central Axis and East Side of the Forbidden City

Beijing City

Before Emperor Yongle moved the capital to Beijing, he had a grand vision for the city. Beijing was designed with the Forbidden City at its heart, divided into four layers:

The innermost layer is the Palace City, the Forbidden City, now the Palace Museum. It runs from the Meridian Gate (Wumen) in the south to the Gate of Divine Prowess (Shenwumen) in the north. The “Zi” (紫) in “Zijincheng” (Forbidden City) refers to the Purple Star, or Polaris. Because Polaris appears fixed in the sky, with other stars revolving around it, it symbolizes the emperor. The “Jin” (禁) means forbidden, heavily guarded, and off-limits. Ming and Qing law decreed that commoners trespassing into the Imperial City would be caned 100 times and exiled 3,000 li. Those trespassing into the Palace City faced hanging.
Outside the Palace City is the Imperial City, stretching from Tian’anmen in the south to Di’anmen in the north. The Imperial City housed most of those who served the emperor.
Further out is the Inner City, roughly the area of today’s Beijing Subway Line 2. That’s why most Line 2 station names are gates (“men”). This was where ordinary people could live; even princes and ministers’ residences were limited to this area.
Finally, there’s the Outer City. Initially a small area on the south side, it expanded as the city grew.

Beijing is laid out along a central axis running through these four layers. The Forbidden City, and even the dragon throne in the Hall of Supreme Harmony, sits on this axis, emphasizing “centeredness” and “righteousness.” The grid-like road network of modern Beijing is a legacy of Emperor Yongle’s design.

The Gates of the Forbidden City

The Palace Museum entrance is at Tian’anmen. Going inward, you pass through Duanmen Gate and the Meridian Gate (Wumen) before entering the Forbidden City. Outside Tian’anmen, there were two more gates: Daqingmen and Zhengyangmen. Daqingmen, called Damingmen during the Ming Dynasty, was the “Gate of the Nation.” It was demolished during the construction of Tian’anmen Square. Zhengyangmen, also known as Qianmen (Front Gate), was mainly for defense. It once had a barbican and arrow tower, but only the gate tower and arrow tower remain; the barbican was torn down during the Republican period.

On either side of Tian’anmen are pairs of stone hou (a mythical beast) on huabiao (ornamental columns). The inner ones are called Wang Jun Chu (Looking for the Emperor to Go Out), meaning the emperor should go out and understand his people’s suffering. The outer ones are called Wang Jun Gui (Looking for the Emperor to Return), meaning the emperor should return and govern diligently.

Emperor: What more do you want?!

The gate opening of Duanmen

The Meridian Gate appears to have three openings but actually has five. From afar, you only see three, but two more are hidden on the sides. This, like the bridges over the Golden Water River, reflects a strict hierarchy. The central gate was for the emperor, though the empress could use it once during the imperial wedding, and the top three scholars in the imperial examination could use it once when leaving. The two side gates were for imperial relatives. The outermost gates were for officials, civil on the left and military on the right (from the emperor’s perspective, facing south). The Hall of Literary Glory (Wenhua Dian) on the east and the Hall of Military Eminence (Wuying Dian) on the west – the entire layout of the Forbidden City’s outer court followed this “civil on the left, military on the right” principle.

The Meridian Gate has walls on three sides

Looking back from inside the Meridian Gate, you can see Duanmen and Tian’anmen’s gate openings. Further out is the Monument to the People’s Heroes. If Daqingmen still existed, you’d see its gate openings, and Zhengyangmen’s, too. Five gates in a line – a powerful symbol of the emperor’s authority.

After the Meridian Gate is the Gate of Supreme Harmony (Taihemen). Although just a gate, it’s grander than most Forbidden City buildings. It caught fire during Emperor Guangxu’s reign, coinciding with his wedding. Protocol dictated the empress pass through it. Someone suggested a temporary paper gate, so realistic that palace staff couldn’t tell the difference. This paper gate was used for six years until the real gate was rebuilt.

The bronze lions in front of the Gate of Supreme Harmony

The Outer Court

The square between the Gate of Supreme Harmony and the Hall of Supreme Harmony (Taihedian) is the Forbidden City’s most open space, yet it has no trees. This grand, artificial landscape was designed to create a sense of awe and pressure on officials attending court, demonstrating the emperor’s majesty.

The Hall of Supreme Harmony is the Forbidden City’s most prestigious building, over 2,200 square meters, supported by 72 nanmu wood pillars. Its roof is the highest level in ancient architecture: a double-eaved, hipped roof. This type of roof, with its curved slopes, was usually reserved for the emperor. Double eaves were also forbidden for commoners.

The Hall of Supreme Harmony has burned down four times, during the reigns of Yongle, Jiajing, Wanli, and Kangxi. Being made of wood, it was highly susceptible to fire. The first two fires were caused by lightning; the latter two spread from elsewhere.

The fire during Jiajing’s reign is interesting. During reconstruction, Jiajing and his ministers discussed the cause and prevention. Without knowledge of lightning rods, they blamed the name. The original name, Fengtian Dian (奉天殿), had the characters written vertically, with “Feng” (奉) above “Tian” (天), potentially displeasing Heaven. Someone suggested writing it horizontally, enlarging “Tian.” Jiajing’s response: “Not elegant” – basically, “ugly”! They renamed it Huangji Dian (皇极殿), with “Huang” (皇) on top. The name Taihe Dian (太和殿) came during the Qing Dynasty.

Jiajing: Make the logo bigger, follow your idea, make it international, when can I see it?

Besides the name change, many fire prevention measures were taken, mostly based on feng shui. The only practical measure was placing large water vats throughout the city.

A water vat in the Imperial Garden

The Hall of Supreme Harmony was mainly for grand ceremonies, like enthronements, weddings, and military expeditions. However, due to fires and other reasons, few ceremonies actually occurred here. Only half of the 14 Ming emperors were enthroned here. Only six emperors (Zhengde, Wanli, Shunzhi, Kangxi, Tongzhi, and Guangxu) held their weddings (first marriages of young emperors) here. Only Kangxi held a military expedition ceremony here, before fighting Galdan. Emperors Zhengde and Jiajing went on expeditions, but skipped the formalities, ignoring ministers’ objections. Emperor Zhengde suffered a defeat at the Tumu Crisis.

East of the Hall of Supreme Harmony is Tiren Ge (Hall of Embodied Benevolence), a quiet area with few visitors.

During Kangxi’s reign, the Boxue Hongru examination was held here. This was a special talent selection, outside the regular imperial examination. Talented individuals were recommended nationwide. The Boxue Hongru exam was much better than the regular one: candidates had tables and chairs, no time limit, candles to continue after dark, and a luxurious dinner (400 taels of silver per table, compared to a county magistrate’s annual salary of ~60 taels). Fifty out of 130+ candidates were admitted, treated like top imperial examination scholars.

The Hall of Central Harmony (Zhonghedian) behind it is square with a round, gilded roof, reflecting the “round heaven, square earth” worldview. At times, the roof reflects sunlight onto the Erlang Temple, which people attributed to divine manifestation.

The Hall of Central Harmony served as the emperor’s resting place before ceremonies and hosted small banquets and meetings. Before the Ming Dynasty fell, Emperor Chongzhen’s last meeting was held here, where ministers offered little useful advice.

The Outer Court’s last building is the Hall of Preserving Harmony (Baohedian). Emperors Shunzhi and Kangxi lived here. “Hall” (dian) signifies state affairs; “palace” (gong), family affairs. Shunzhi initially lived in the Palace of Heavenly Purity (Qianqinggong), but it was in disrepair, so he stayed in the Hall of Preserving Harmony, renaming it a palace (Weiyu Gong, then Qingning Gong during Kangxi’s stay).

I didn’t get good pictures of the Hall of Central Harmony and the Hall of Preserving Harmony. This area is very crowded. The emperors watched officials shout “Long live the Emperor.” What would they think of today’s tourists?

Emperor: Guards!!!

The Inner Court

The Gate of Heavenly Purity (Qianqingmen) divides the Outer Court’s Three Halls and the Inner Court’s Three Palaces. The Palace of Heavenly Purity area forms a courtyard, including the Palace of Heavenly Purity (Qianqinggong), the Hall of Union and Peace (Jiaotaidian), and the Palace of Earthly Tranquility (Kunninggong). Originally, these were the emperor’s residence, a place for rituals, and the empress’s residence, respectively. But starting from the Inner Court, they often weren’t used as intended. Yongzheng moved to the Hall of Mental Cultivation (Yangxindian), the Palace of Earthly Tranquility became a place for sacrifices, and Cixi lived in the Western Six Palaces. Rules were often bent.

The Palace of Heavenly Purity has a plaque reading “Zhengda Guangming” (Justice and Honor). Starting with Yongzheng, to reduce infighting, a secret succession system was used. The emperor wrote a will, kept one copy, and hid another behind the plaque. After his death, the copies were compared for succession.

I took a magical photo in the Palace of Earthly Tranquility. The old-style glass reflects colorful light. The interior is dim, and the glass reflects the sky with stunning colors.

The sundial in front of the Palace of Earthly Tranquility

Behind the Three Palaces is the Imperial Garden, which is smaller than Prince Gong’s private garden. Of course, this is unfair; the imperial leisure areas included the Summer Palace, Yuanmingyuan, etc.

Heshen: I lost.

Scenes in the Imperial Garden

Exiting the Imperial Garden, you reach the Gate of Divine Prowess (Shenwumen), the Forbidden City’s north gate. The imperial family’s female members used this gate for outings; the emperor used the Meridian Gate, and they’d meet later.

The Gate of Divine Prowess was previously Xuanwumen. Traditional culture associates four divine beasts with directions: Green Dragon (east), White Tiger (west), Vermilion Bird (south), and Black Tortoise (Xuanwu, north). Xuanwumen often referred to a north gate. To avoid Emperor Kangxi’s taboo name, Xuanye (玄烨), it became Shenwumen (神武门).

Looking back at the palace walls from Shenwumen

Vents in the wall for ventilation and wood preservation

Looking back from outside the Gate of Divine Prowess

East Side of the Forbidden City

That’s the central axis. We then headed south from the Inner Court’s eastern part, visiting the Six Eastern Palaces. I’m not familiar with imperial harem history, and I can’t remember which concubine lived where. The most memorable was the popular Yanxi Palace, with a water palace. I initially thought it was a fire ruin, but the guide explained it was unfinished. Yanxi Palace had multiple fires. Consort Jin (or possibly Empress Dowager Longyu) commissioned a Western-style crystal palace, to suppress fire and enjoy fish. It had a pool with goldfish and a glass floor. Due to financial constraints, it was halted.

If completed, the underwater level would have resembled modern ocean parks.

South of the Six Eastern Palaces is the Archery Pavilion (Jianting). Jianting’s spacious interior was used for archery and martial arts practice, and hosted military examinations.

Weapons and armor of the Eight Banners army were displayed inside Jianting.

Saddle

Continuing south, east of Xiehe Gate, is the Forbidden City’s most tranquil area. The Wenhua Dian complex is hidden behind trees. The two main buildings are Wenhua Dian (Hall of Literary Glory) and Wenyuan Ge (Hall of Literary Profundity).

Looking back at Xiehe Gate

The tree-lined path east of Xiehe Gate

After the Three Great Halls burned down, Wenhua Dian temporarily served as the emperor’s office. After their reconstruction, it became the crown prince’s office. Therefore, the roof couldn’t use yellow glazed tiles and was downgraded to green. Emperor Jiajing later converted Wenhua Dian for his own use, hence the yellow roof today.

Wenhua Dian hosted “Jingyan” (Classics Mat lectures), where Grand Scholars taught the emperor Confucian classics, shaping his worldview. This was crucial for young emperors. Zhang Juzheng taught young Wanli, and Weng Tonghe taught young Guangxu here.

For Guangxu’s first lesson, Weng Tonghe taught calligraphy (“Tianxia Taiping, Zhengda Guangming” - Peace under Heaven, Justice and Honor). Guangxu got bored, so Weng switched to storytelling, using Zhang Juzheng’s “Dijian Tushuo” (Illustrated Mirror for Emperors). Guangxu’s interest waned. Weng then made him read aloud, repeatedly. Guangxu refused. Weng criticized him harshly, and Guangxu walked out. Scolded by Cixi, he returned. As he grew older, Guangxu became more cooperative and respected his teacher, consulting him on important decisions.

Guangxu: Pfft~ I’m still a baby.

East of Wenhua Dian is Chuanxin Dian (Hall of Passing on the Mind), enshrining figures like Fuxi, Nuwa, Shennong, Xuanyuan, Yao, Shun, Yu, the Duke of Zhou, and Confucius. This building appeared during the Qing Dynasty, demonstrating its acceptance of Han culture.

To the north, Wenyuan Ge looks ancient. It was the Forbidden City’s imperial library, once holding important classics like the Siku Quanshu (Complete Library in Four Sections).

Day 2: Inner Court - East and West

Inner Court - East Side

After entering the Meridian Gate, we headed straight for Huangji Dian, a “city within a city” known as the Inner Court’s Outer Eastern Road. The Nine Dragon Screen stands before the courtyard gate.

Huangji Gate, facing the Nine Dragon Screen

The courtyard mirrors the Forbidden City’s central axis. Qianlong built this garden for his retirement. He abdicated after 60 years on the throne, becoming Emperor Emeritus, honoring his promise not to exceed Kangxi’s 61-year reign.

Qianlong: Buy low, sell high, and quit while you’re ahead~

The dragon throne in Huangji Dian. Qianlong’s retirement certainly didn’t cramp his style. This photo practically has its own soundtrack – you can almost hear the theme song of “The Qianlong Dynasty”! Ah, Adam Cheng!

Huangji Dian’s courtyard now houses the Palace Museum’s Treasure Gallery. I’m no expert, but these lavish artworks were instantly captivating.

8 jade artifacts

8 gold artifacts

Behind the courtyard lies the rest and recreation area. Changyin Ge (Pavilion of Pleasant Sounds), the Forbidden City’s largest theater, stands out. It has three levels, with Qianlong watching performances from the opposing Yue Shi Lou (Tower for Viewing). Actors used vertical passages to move between levels, appearing from below or descending from above.

Leshou Tang (Hall of Joyful Longevity), once Cixi’s residence, has a subdued, aged feel compared to the vibrant Inner Court’s Three Palaces.

The walls display calligraphy and paintings gifted by ministers, reflecting her power. She also resided in a Leshou Tang at the Summer Palace.

At the backyard’s north end is a well. Nobody dared drink Forbidden City well water. During Yongle Emperor’s reign, bored eunuchs and palace maids sometimes formed unofficial couples. Disgusted by seeing one such couple, Yongle ordered the execution of all paired eunuchs and maids, throwing them into the wells. The number of bodies in the Forbidden City’s wells remains unknown.

Zhu Di: Bro, it’s fine! Drink up!

Consort Zhen, Guangxu’s favorite, famously died in a well. Cixi arranged Guangxu’s marriage to Empress Longyu, but Guangxu disliked her, finding her plain and unremarkable. He favored the lively and intelligent Consort Zhen. She embraced Western ideas and supported Guangxu’s reforms, angering Cixi. When the Eight-Nation Alliance invaded, Cixi fled, ordering Consort Zhen thrown into the well behind Huangji Dian before leaving. The well was renamed Zhenfei Jing (Consort Zhen Well). Guangxu was reportedly never the same, withdrawing from the world.

Leaving the Inner Court’s Outer Eastern Road, we returned to Shenwumen (Gate of Divine Prowess). We climbed the Forbidden City wall and walked the eastern section. Taihe Dian (Hall of Supreme Harmony) clearly stands as the tallest building, its roof style distinctly superior. Most lower buildings feature hip roofs with small vertical gables.

Several views on the city wall, the building in the picture is not Taihe Dian

Northeast Corner Tower

We also photographed a small courtyard in a restricted area, resembling the workshop from the documentary “Masters in Forbidden City.” My wife and I agreed it was likely the same place.

Forbidden City - West Side

After descending, we passed Wenhua Dian and crossed Taihemen Square to reach Wuying Dian (Hall of Military Eminence).

Taihemen Square

Despite the Forbidden City’s “literature on the left, military on the right” design, Wuying Dian primarily served literary purposes. Except for the Ming-Qing transition, when Li Zicheng and Dorgon handled affairs here, it mostly functioned as the royal publishing house.

South of Wuying Dian lies Jiyongchu (literally “Exciting Bucket Place”), the ancient fire brigade’s location. The term “fire brigade” existed during the Guangxu period. They used a syringe-like device called a “jitong” (exciting bucket) to spray water several meters. Wuying Dian’s fire brigade was the earliest dedicated firefighting organization, a precursor to modern fire brigades.

Jitong

Leaving Wuying Dian, we bypassed the Three Great Halls to reach Cining Gong (Palace of Compassion and Tranquility), the residence of empress dowagers and imperial concubines – much grander than the concubines’ quarters. A Buddhist hall stood behind Cining Gong, reflecting the empress dowagers’ faith.

The second courtyard of Cining Gong

The western building of the second courtyard of Cining Gong

South of Cining Gate is a long, narrow garden, almost as large as the Imperial Garden, but less refined and dynamic, feeling stiff and monotonous – more like a park for seniors than a garden.

Empress Dowager: Stay fit, don’t give me any of that fancy stuff.

No direct path connects Cining Gong to the Six Western Palaces; we detoured past Yangxin Dian (Hall of Mental Cultivation), which was closed for renovation. We did see the Grand Council (Junjichu) in front. Kangxi, a dedicated scholar, established Nan Shufang (South Study) near Yangxin Dian to discuss military affairs, rituals, calligraphy, painting, literature, and even mathematics. During Yongzheng’s reign, the emperor moved to Yangxin Dian and established the Grand Council, diminishing Nan Shufang’s role.

Kangxi: You can’t even begin to imagine the life of a top student.

We didn’t thoroughly explore the Inner Court’s Outer Western Road and the Six Western Palaces due to closing time and our aching feet. Over 60,000 steps in two days is astronomical for two homebodies.

Day 3: Prince Gong’s Mansion, Temple of Confucius, and Imperial College

Prince Gong’s Mansion is significant. Guides and apps claim it witnessed the Qing Dynasty’s rise and fall—half its history.

Residential Area

As a former prince’s residence, it was built to a lower standard than the imperial palace. It uses green glazed tiles, but the courtyard layout mirrors the Forbidden City’s central axis.

Yin’an Hall, at the center, is less grand than palace buildings, but its name is significant. A prince’s main hall usually wasn’t named, just called “main hall.” So, genuine mansions typically lack plaques. Yin’an Hall, also called Yinluan Hall, rivals the Hall of Supreme Harmony (Jinluan Hall), reflecting Prince Gong Yixin’s peak power.

Front of Yin’an Hall

It was crowded, so I photographed it from the side, revealing Yin’an Hall’s architectural style and delicate gable decoration. Regulations allowed princes’ residences green glazed tiles and hip-and-gable roofs for main gates, halls, and sleeping halls. Officials were restricted to gray-black tiles and couldn’t use hip-and-gable roofs. Thus, Heshen, regardless of his power, couldn’t use this architecture.

West gable wall of Yin’an Hall

Yin’an Hall, destroyed by fire in the early Republic, was rebuilt in 2008, making it quite new. Liang Sicheng aided its restoration. The repair team initially only had a floor plan, lacking details, until they found Liang’s detailed records. He’d documented the mansion while participating in renovations when it served as Fu Jen Catholic University’s campus.

The residential area has three sections: east, middle, and west. In Heshen’s time, the middle section was the main hall, used for major events. The east housed Princess Gurun Hexiao, Heshen’s daughter-in-law, favored by Emperor Qianlong, who married her to Heshen’s son, Fengshen Yinde. The west was Heshen’s residence.

North of the west section is Xijinzhai. During Prince Gong Yixin’s time, it held Lu Ji’s famous Jin Dynasty calligraphy, “Pingfu Tie.”

“Pingfu Tie,” I’m no calligraphy expert

“Xi” in Xijinzhai derives from “Ci,” meaning bestowed treasures. “Jin” refers to the Jin Dynasty masterpiece. The west side hall, Er’erzhai, implies that compared to “Pingfu Tie,” these buildings and treasures are insignificant!

Yixin: My precious!

Xijinzhai, though remote, is the mansion’s most luxurious building. Heshen called it Jialetang. Its exterior is plain, but the interior is stunning. Heshen used designs exceeding his rank, making his residence grander than Princess Gurun Hexiao’s. For instance, golden nanmu pillars, reserved for the emperor, became a major crime during his house raid.

A long, two-story building, Houzhao Building, separates the residence and garden. Houzhao rooms are at the back of traditional siheyuan courtyards, serving as houses and the back wall. A multi-story Houzhao room is a Houzhao Building.

The secret of this Houzhao Building is on its north side. From the garden, each second-floor window has unique shapes and carvings.

This was Heshen’s personal indexing system. Shapes represented treasure types. Walking under the eaves, he’d know what was hidden behind each room by the window. He reportedly often strolled there with a cryptic smile.

Heshen: My precious! × N

Qianlong tolerated Heshen’s greed because he saw him as capable and loyal. Compared to ambitious past ministers, greed seemed minor. Heshen, a miser who hoarded wealth, served as Qianlong’s piggy bank. Jiaqing broke it open immediately after Qianlong’s death.

Garden Area

Three paths lead from the residence to the garden. The middle one goes through the Western Gate, built during Prince Gong Yixin’s time. It’s said to be one of only three Western-style gates in Beijing then, and the garden’s only Western-style structure.

The garden’s theme is fortune (福, fu). A bat pond lies at the Western Gate’s entrance, a bat hall at the northern end, and bat patterns adorn many buildings. The garden also holds a stele with Kangxi’s “fu” character, written for Empress Dowager Xiaozhuang and later given to Heshen by Qianlong.

The garden’s lake and bat pond connect to Shichahai, a privilege reserved for princes. Ministers’ ponds couldn’t connect externally. East of the bat pond is Qinqiu Pavilion, built by Yixin for his favorite concubine. Its floor has a winding channel for a “floating cup” game, a Liubei Pavilion. It was my first time seeing a real “Qu Shui Liu Shang.”

The garden’s theater is unique, being China’s only fully indoor one. Its beams and pillars are painted with wisteria, appearing somewhat odd now. Yixin prepared it for Cixi, who always watched operas outdoors. He mimicked the outdoor setting inside to cater to her habits.

South of the lake, on the west side, is Miaoxiang Pavilion, oddly shaped. After Prince Gong helped Cixi gain power, she sidelined him. He built this pavilion, resembling her ceremonial hat, to vent his anger, occasionally stepping on it.

Cixi: Why the sudden headaches?

In the southwest corner is a small mountain god temple, worshipping hedgehogs, weasels, foxes, and snakes—common animals then revered as gods. Nearby is a small Dragon King temple. Heshen, advised by a feng shui master that this spot was the garden’s water level and dragon’s location, built it for worship.

Temple of Confucius

We left Prince Gong’s Mansion for the Temple of Confucius and the Imperial College, adjacent attractions with a single ticket.

I examined the door studs of Dacheng Gate at the Temple of Confucius. Originally for fixing, preventing wood warping, they became linked to status in the Qing Dynasty. Their shape and number were restricted; commoners couldn’t use them freely. Odd numbers are yang, even numbers yin. Nine, the largest yang number, represents imperial authority (e.g., Nine-Five Supremacy, Nine-Dragon Wall). Doors directly linked to the emperor used 9 rows and 9 columns of studs (81 total).

Looking back at my Forbidden City photos, a missing stud (lower left) shows they penetrate the door panel. This photo shows Xihe Gate, leading to Wuying Hall. Though a side gate, it maintains the highest standard.

Xihe Gate of the Forbidden City, 81 door studs

Dacheng Gate’s studs are identical. Dacheng Hall also reflects the highest architectural standards. The Temple of Confucius’s last major Qing renovation was during the Guangxu period, demonstrating the regime’s acceptance of Confucian culture.

Dacheng Gate of the Temple of Confucius, 81 door studs

The grandeur of Dacheng Hall

Dacheng Hall displays musical instruments like chime bells and stones. Confucianism emphasizes rituals and music, often mentioned together as “Li Beng Yue Huai” (collapse of rituals and music). Though often considered a whole, they are literally two distinct, yet inseparable, concepts in Confucianism.

This set of bronze chime bells is remarkably well-preserved

Chime stones

Imperial College

The adjacent Imperial College, the highest Ming and Qing Dynasty institution of learning, predates the Forbidden City, having been built in the Yuan Dynasty. The glazed archway behind Taixue Gate, China’s only archway dedicated to education, is impressive. Its four pillars represent merit, fame, profit, and wealth. The building features lotus nail carvings, symbolizing “success in successive examinations.”

Glazed archway, excluding the side pillars

Piyong Hall, at the Imperial College’s center, is the world’s only building dedicated to imperial lectures. After Emperor Qianlong, each new emperor lectured here, emphasizing education.

Inside Piyong Hall

Emperor: Listen, and you’ll pass! DM for the PPT.

About to enter Piyong, I was sidetracked by an interesting exhibition on the imperial examination system’s history.

The Imperial Examination System

The ancient talent selection system evolved. “Ju Xiaolian,” often heard in ancient texts, was an assessment in the Han Dynasty’s inspection system. Compared to other systems, the imperial examination better promoted social mobility, a significant improvement.

In the Han Dynasty, special carriages fetched candidates for capital positions. This reminded me of “Gongche Shangshu” (Petition by Scholars), realizing “Gongche” refers to that group of intellectuals.

The Tang Dynasty saw the imperial examination develop, with subdivisions for literature, science, medicine, and martial arts. It even accepted foreigners as officials.

The Song Dynasty pioneered the palace examination and had a relatively complete anti-cheating system. Candidates’ papers were rewritten, and names sealed before being given to examiners, preventing favoritism. Examiners graded papers on a five-level scale: excellent, good, medium, poor, and inferior.

By the Yuan, Ming, and Qing Dynasties, only the Jinshi remained. As the system matured, social mobility slowed. Early Qing saw a higher proportion of officials’ children passing the Jinshi exam than commoners. Kangxi introduced separate papers, with quotas for officials and commoners.

I only knew of the provincial, metropolitan, and palace examinations. But commoners actually faced six stages: child, provincial, metropolitan, palace, court, and Shuguan examinations. The child examination was a qualification. The provincial examination was held in the province, supervised by central officials. Those who passed were Juren; the top scorer was Jieyuan. The metropolitan examination was in Beijing, at the Gongyuan outside the Forbidden City. The top scorer was Huiyuan.

The palace examination tested culture and calligraphy. The Guangge style, a neat small regular script, was used. During a Qianlong-era palace examination, Liu Fenggao kept writing until dark, refusing to hand in his paper. The Minister of Rites, seeing his excellent calligraphy, ordered candles for him. He placed third. Qianlong, finding Liu short and unattractive, tested him with a couplet: “East Qiming, West Chang庚, South Ji North Dou, I am the star-picking hand.” Liu instantly replied: “Spring peony, summer peony, autumn chrysanthemum, winter plum, I am the Tanhualang.”

He looks quite normal in the portrait!

Besides culture and calligraphy, names could change fates. During a Jiajing-era palace examination, two top candidates were Qin Minglei and Wu Qing. Wu Qing was stronger, but Jiajing disliked the name. During a drought, Minglei (sounding like thunder, implying rain) was favored, making him Zhuangyuan. Wu Qing placed third. A limerick satirized this: “Wuqing (heartless) candidate, heartless emperor, Minglei picked up the bargain.”

Only three placed in the top three of the palace examination; the numbers for second and third ranks varied. Different levels had different career prospects. Stopping at the palace examination often meant local assignment, hindering promotion. To get closer to the center, most Jinshi took the Hanlin Academy examination, a graduate school. 90% of Ming Dynasty Grand Secretaries came from the Hanlin Academy, a career fast track. The entrance exam was the court examination. Admitted Jinshi were Shujishi; the top three were exempt.

The Hanlin Academy’s graduation examination was the Shuguan examination. It divided Shujishi into three groups. The first stayed, doing compilation and potentially teaching princes, with fast promotion. Some of the second stayed, others went to the six ministries. The third group returned to the official circle, awaiting employment.

Admission ticket

Imperial examination paper

Leaving the exhibition, it was too late to explore the Imperial College further. The day’s itinerary concluded.

Day 4: Summer Palace

The Summer Palace is more relaxed than the previous days. The historical events here aren’t as dense as at the Forbidden City and Prince Gong’s Mansion; it’s primarily for sightseeing. A perfect, relaxing end to the trip.

I felt a sense of familiarity arriving at the Summer Palace. Tourists from Jiangsu and Zhejiang, like myself, feel right at home. Qianlong, with his Jiangnan obsession, didn’t find six trips to Jiangnan enough. He recreated it at the Summer Palace (then Qingyi Garden). Suzhou Street mimics a Jiangnan water town, Xiequ Garden replicates a Jiangnan garden, and Kunming Lake is a stand-in for Hangzhou’s West Lake.

Cixi adored Suzhou Street. She’d have palace maids and eunuchs play the roles of residents, merchants, and tourists, simulating a real water town.

Palace maids & eunuchs: The Truman Show, take 76, everyone ready, Action!

Longevity Hill

I entered from the North Palace Gate, behind Longevity Hill. Passing Suzhou Street, you’re at the mountain’s peak: the Four Great Regions, a Tibetan Buddhist structure.

Looking up at the Four Great Regions from the north side

It’s unimpressive from the back. But circling to Kunming Lake’s front and re-climbing Longevity Hill, the building’s grandeur emerges. While not as grand as the Forbidden City, it rises with the mountain, creating a natural solemnity.

Paiyun Hall, where Cixi celebrated her birthdays, sits at the mountain’s foot. Emperor Guangxu had to wait in a side hall. Most Qing rulers followed Tibetan Buddhism. Dehui Hall, behind Paiyun Hall, bridges secular and religious authority. Beyond it lies the Buddhist realm.

Buddha: Need a visa? Your human world’s so casual?

Looking up at Dehui Hall and Foxiang Pavilion from Paiyun Hall

The steps are narrow, cramped. Looking up at Foxiang Pavilion from them is striking – the size contrast is dramatic. Turning, you get a panoramic view of Kunming Lake.

Ascending, you see the repeating Buddha statues in Zhongxiangjie and Zhihuihai – a powerful visual. The lower statues’ heads were looted by the Eight-Nation Alliance; the current ones are restorations, hence their new appearance.

Looking up at Zhongxiangjie

Buddha statues on the wall of Zhihuihai

The Four Great Regions, blending imperial and Tibetan Buddhist styles, crowns the peak. Climbing from the front, it evokes the Potala Palace. For a moment, I felt transported to Lhasa.

Descending east, I reached Kunming Lake. Looking back at Longevity Hill, the climb is clearly visible, undeniably solemn and majestic.

Hall of Benevolence and Longevity (RenShouDian) and Grand Theater (DeHeYuan)

Besides the Forbidden City, the Hall of Benevolence and Longevity impressed me most. Cixi, during her regency, favored the Summer Palace. This hall, like the Forbidden City’s Hall of Supreme Harmony, hosted ceremonies and foreign envoys.

Two dragons and two phoenixes flank a bronze qilin. Unusually, the phoenixes are central, a testament to Cixi’s power. The area lacks the Hall of Supreme Harmony’s masculine energy (with its bronze lions), but pines, stones, and bronze ding vessels lend it an air of elder statesmanship.

Elder Statesman: No dog head? Seriously?

Cixi loved opera. My wife says she’d be a homebody today, binge-watching shows.

North of the Hall of Benevolence and Longevity is the Deheyuan Grand Theater. It blows the Forbidden City’s Hall of Changyinge (Sound of Smooth Music) out of the water. Similar style, but vastly upgraded.

The screen wall of the Deheyuan courtyard, sunlight perfectly illuminating the crape myrtle tree.

The Grand Theater of Deheyuan

A corner of the Grand Theater

Cixi didn’t just watch; she made officials join. The Hall of Yile (YiLeDian), opposite Deheyuan, was her viewing platform; the side corridors were for officials. Cixi saw it as a treat, but they didn’t. With no restrooms, officials needing relief had to bribe eunuchs to open a gate, escape via ladder, and follow a small path to the toilet – the “Happy Little Path.”

The side corridors served as officials’ boxes.

Official: I’m sneaking out. If the Old Buddha calls, say I’m here.

Deheyuan has three courtyards. Behind the Hall of Yile is another, used for resting during intermissions.

Garden of Harmonious Interests (XieQuYuan)

The Summer Palace is vast. Coming from Hangzhou, I skipped Kunming Lake’s large expanse. But I discovered a hidden gem: the Garden of Harmonious Interests, in the northeast corner.

It’s a delicate Jiangnan-style garden, a garden within a garden. The architecture, with single-eave, roll-shed, and hip-and-gable roofs, is imperial. This blend of elegance and imperial grandeur is rare in Jiangnan, and truly striking.

The Knowing-Fish Bridge (ZhiYuQiao) is the highlight. It’s low, ideal for fish-watching. Qianlong named it after Zhuangzi and Huizi’s philosophical “debate”: “You’re not a fish; how do you know their joy?”

Qianlong: I just know, alright? Keep it up!

A pond corner, viewed from the Knowing-Fish Bridge

Beautiful Corners

Beyond these, the Summer Palace has secluded, beautiful corners, rarely seen by tourists.

East of Longevity Hill is the Multi-Treasure Glazed Pagoda (DuoBaoLiuLiTa). Its surface, covered in Buddha statues, echoes Longevity Hill’s Hall of the Sea of Wisdom (ZhiHuiHai). Though closed, you can walk around it, getting quite close.

Northeast of the pagoda is the isolated Hall of Tanning (DanNingTang). The Summer Palace’s Rear Lake, more a narrow river, lies north of it. The view south from the north bank offers a unique, tranquil beauty.

A nearby bridge is also distinctive, perfect for photos.

And, as evening approached, the sky filled with cirrus and cirrocumulus clouds – stunning weather!

Beijing Impressions

Accommodation

I stayed in Beijing for four days and five nights. The first three nights were at an Airbnb near Zhangzizhong Road, close to Nanluoguxiang. The room was tiny but cozy, clean, and well-connected. Finding a gem like that takes luck.

You could even glimpse a siheyuan (courtyard house) from the window.

The last two nights were a total bust. Another Airbnb, but it was a bait-and-switch – nothing like the pictures. Dirty and awful. The location was also off, not where it was pinned on the map, and you needed a taxi to reach the subway.

Two takeaways about lodging:

Prioritize location near transit. In cities with solid subway systems, rely on public transport. No need to switch places mid-trip.
If it seems too good to be true, it probably is. Rent is market-driven; don’t get your hopes up.

Food

I mostly ate lunch at the sights, grabbing bread to save time. I only got to sample local food in the evenings.

The first night’s dinner sticks with me. After exiting the Forbidden City’s Shenwu Gate, I went west around Jingshan Park, then north into Gongjian Hutong. Deep in the hutong, there’s a restaurant in an old imperial ice cellar. The original ice storage is still there.

Ice was a royal commodity in the Ming and Qing dynasties. Each winter, ice cutters harvested blocks from lakes, hauling them to ice cellars across Beijing. The Ministry of Works oversaw it. Ice cutting was brutal, backbreaking work. It was hereditary; no quitting. The 1.5 chi square blocks fit perfectly into ice chests. Stored for half a year, the ice came out for summer use. It was even a prestigious gift, “awarding ice” to officials.

Ice (bing) is a loaded word, sounding like “soldier” in Chinese. This partially explains the emperor’s monopoly. When Zhu Di plotted to overthrow Emperor Jianwen, he consulted the monk Yao Guangxiao (Dao Yan). Zhu Di, instead of stating his intentions directly, offered the first line of a couplet: “When the sky is cold and the earth is frozen, water without a single dot cannot become ice (bing).” Yao Guangxiao, catching his drift, replied: “When the country is in chaos and the people are worried, who will be the leader if the king (wang) does not step forward?”

Regarding local specialties, Peking duck and copper charcoal hot pot are decent. But you can find them everywhere now, just as authentic, so I skipped them. I had dinner with classmates twice – one Western, one Xinjiang. I didn’t really get into the traditional Beijing snacks: baodu (boiled tripe), luzhu (stewed pork offal), chaogan (stir-fried liver)… Beijing cuisine features a lot of offal. I’m not a fan, and to me, these dishes don’t quite mask the gamey flavor.

Chicken broth radish, baodu, and sesame sauce for baodu at the Imperial Ice Cellar Restaurant

Yaoji Chaogan at the foot of the Drum Tower, from top left to bottom right: almond tofu, luzhu, garlic vinegar sauce for luzhu, zhajiangmian (noodles with savory soybean paste), chaogan*

I did some digging, and many claim Beijingers were poor in the late Qing Dynasty, resorting to scraps. I think it’s plausible the other way around – people actively chose these ingredients. Offal was cheap in Beijing, dirt cheap!

Due to the well-off princes and nobles, Beijing’s daily livestock consumption was staggering. The meat was used, ice cellars were royal-only, and offal, hard to preserve or transport, flooded the market. Offal prices were likely much lower than elsewhere.

I also suspect that, due to royal protocol, meat demand in Beijing during the Ming and Qing was more rigid. Even as the economy declined, meat consumption likely stayed high. So, as the late Qing economy worsened, offal became even cheaper, establishing it as a regional specialty.

I found an article with a similar viewpoint, though it doesn’t focus solely on Beijing’s offal consumption: https://www.douban.com/note/666792033/

Then there’s douzhi’er (fermented mung bean milk). I got a cup near Prince Gong’s Mansion. It’s made from fermented mung beans, which are mostly sugar and protein. The fermented taste is…unique. The shop owner was funny. He poured a tiny disposable cup. My wife asked, “That’s it?” He said, “Finish it, and I’ll give you a refill.” She took one sip, tossed it, and said it reeked of rotten eggs.

Owner: Hey! Leaving so soon? No refill?

Besides traditional snacks, I found a killer dessert shop in Jianchang Hutong near Guozijian.

Anecdotes

I remember arriving in Beijing; hailing a taxi at the station was impossible. I took a shuttle bus further out to grab one. The driver’s Beijing accent was a real pick-me-up.

Take the shuttle bus one stop, and it’s easy to get a cab.

It was like that the whole trip. Ride-hailing drivers everywhere have their groups, chatting on voice messages at red lights. Beijing drivers have a totally different style. The whole group was hyping up a driver who’d hit his daily bonus and was calling it quits – like a xiangsheng (crosstalk) routine.

“Damn! You’re killing it.”

“Missed one fare, I’m toast.”

At a light, I saw something heartwarming. An old man pedaled a canopied tricycle across the road. It was uphill; he was struggling. His wife, presumably, sat in the back. She stretched out her legs, helping him pedal. Once they crested the hill, she sat back.

It reminded me of… interacting forces!

On my last night, my classmate treated me to Xinjiang food. The main dish was a huge plate of jiaomaji (chicken with numbing peppers) – a massive portion.

My classmate said it’s nothing compared to Northeastern cuisine. She’d been there on business: “The guobaorou (sweet and sour pork) is this big,” she said, gesturing. For something refined, she goes for Japanese. Japanese food in Northeast China is localized – still sushi, hand rolls, sashimi, but double the size.

Mind blown! Big eaters who love Japanese food, head to Northeast China – you’ll be stuffed!

My classmate lives in Xizhimen, supposedly the “center of the universe” (laughs). I also visited Sanlitun, and compared to that, Xizhimen feels older, not so “center of the universe.” The key is the prestigious schools and diverse population, supporting a varied commercial scene.

Sanlitun Taikoo Li

Near Xizhimen Subway Station

My classmate broke it down: different times for students hanging out, European and American students emerging, bar-hopping crowds, and often, drunk Japanese and Koreans on the streets. And after that…

I was thinking, the capital’s nightlife is so sophisticated, what could be next?

Then, it’s the IT worker exodus. The line of overtime slaves for the subway stretches from inside the station to the intersection.

……

Brutal!

Epilogue

Back in Hangzhou, I knew I’d return to Beijing. Its historical sites, hutongs, nature, museums, and exhibitions are endless; you’ll always discover something new. I was too ambitious this time, a bit rushed.

I also realized I don’t appreciate my own city enough. I’ve become complacent. I need to shift my perspective and revisit Hangzhou as a tourist, to truly understand my home.

When it comes to travel planning: honestly, there’s a simple, repeatable process. Once you string all the key elements together in the right sequence, the itinerary practically writes itself.

For the full breakdown, you can check out this article: A Step-by-Step Guide to Travel Planning.